Porto
Porto30 Sep – 1 Oct
Porto Cathedral – truly beautiful.
We had our pilgrim passports stamped at the cathedral and walked across the Luís I bridge. “I could hardly walk across it, it was so high.” We ended the day with port and pastéis de nata.
In the app: the Getting around guide shows you how to get from the airport to the cathedral by metro.
Day 1 · Valença → O Porriño
1Valença → O Porriño
Loved walking through Valença. I could move there in a heartbeat.
We crossed the river from Portugal into Spain and arrived in the lovely town of Tui, where the 12th-century cathedral was built like a fortress. “Roman cobbles have been everywhere.”
In the app: your train from Porto to Valença is saved on the day you travel.
Day 2 · O Porriño → Redondela
2O Porriño → Redondela
Set off at 6 this morning. It's dark in Spain until 8.30am.
After Mos the path climbs and drops on steep 10% slopes. “Going down is not as good on the feet as going up.”
In the app: every stage shows how much you will climb and is rated Easy, Moderate or Hard.
Day 3 · Redondela → Pontevedra
3Redondela → Pontevedra
We chatted so much, half the mileage was done before we blinked.
We made our first Camino friends, from Germany and Australia. Just before Pontevedra we passed a granite chapel built in 1617, and the town itself is full of murals.
In the app: the Variante Espiritual leaves the main route just after Pontevedra. Choose it, and your plan adds the monasteries and the boat trip.
Day 4 · Pontevedra → Caldas de Reis
4Pontevedra → Caldas de Reis
6am start. We really do feel so safe and blessed on the trail.
“23 km sounds like nothing until you carry backpacks along with you.”
In the app: water points, cafés and supermarkets are listed by kilometre, so you know where to find your first coffee before you set off in the dark.
Day 5 · Caldas de Reis → Padrón
5Caldas de Reis → Padrón
Sent my bag via a transport service. Doesn't help when there's 3 litres of water and two huge apples in the small one.
Clouds gathered as we walked forest paths towards Padrón, where the Convento do Carme looks down over the town.
In the app: choose a luggage transfer company for each day, and get a reminder to book it the night before.
Day 6 · Padrón → Teo
6Padrón → Teo
Café con leche for €1. Everywhere else charges €2 minimum.
We found a roadside stop 4 km before Teo, run by a man who has walked the Camino himself. Dinner that night was “a local broth and chicken stew. Best money we spent on the whole trip.”
In the app: the places we loved are marked on the route, so you can find them too.
Day 7 · Teo → Santiago
7Teo → Santiago
120 km done. We arrived at 10:07am.
“A chilly, windy morning. Some dark forest where we think a fox was stalking us. We almost turned back till the sun came up.”
In the app: the final day explains how to collect your Compostela, and shows which station your bus home leaves from.